Understanding hair type and textures

If you’ve been using luxury haircare products without seeing premium results, it could be that you’re not matching the right formulas with your hair type.

Much like understanding your skin type is important for implementing an effective skincare routine, figuring out what type of hair you have can play a huge role in helping you to reach your hair goals.

Now, by just looking at your hair you’ll be able to recognise some obvious characteristics. For example, is it straight, wavy, curly, or coily? However, there are a few other factors to consider in pinpointing your unique hair type.

Below is everything you need to know to understand hair types and textures, and exactly define your hair. We’ve tried to communicate the information so that it can be easily absorbed, leaving the complex “science” bits for another day.

In this Article:

• Let’s Talk Hair Type
• Hair Thickness vs Hair Density
• What’s My Hair Porosity?
• Get to Know Your Scalp
• What about hair-fall and ageing hair?

1. Let’s talk hair type

The next time you wash your hair, allow it to air-dry without any products in it. This will help you to define the natural shape or pattern of your strands.

You can use the following as a guideline:

• If your hair dries straight without a bend or curl, then you have straight hair (type 1).
• If your hair dries with a slight curve or “S” shape, then you have wavy hair (type 2).
• If your hair dries with a defined curl, then you have curly hair (type 3).
• If your hair dries to form tight curls or spirals, then you have coily hair (type 4).

Each type deserves a ritual that enhances its natural beauty. Curly and coily hair often need more hydration and definition, while straight and wavy hair may benefit from volume-boosting or smoothing treatments.

Waves and curls crave structure. Without hydration, they lose definition. That's why nourishing shampoos, masks and curl enhancing serums are essential for curly hair types.

Jan Spagnuolo

Metodo Director

Rossano Ferretti HairSpa, Park Hyatt New York

Tip: Don’t confuse type with texture. Your hair can be curly and fine, or straight and coarse—more on that below.

2. Hair Thickness vs Hair Density 

When we talk about the appearance of your hair, two important factors come into play: thickness and density. They’re often confused, but they describe very different things. 

• Hair Thickness refers to the diameter of each individual strand. Is your hair fine, medium, or coarse? 

• Hair Density refers to the number of strands on your head. Do you have naturally sparse hair, or does your scalp feel full? 

How to determine your thickness: 

 Hair thickness refers to the diameter of your hair strands, which generally falls into 3 categories: 

1. Fine/thin 
2. Medium 
3. Thick  

 The thickness of your hair will affect how well it will hold styles and react to certain products.  

A quick and easy way to see which category your hair falls into is to take a strand of your hair and lay it next to a piece of sewing thread. If your strand is thinner than the sewing thread, then you have thin (fine) hair. If it’s thicker than the thread, your hair will fall into the thick (coarse) category. Anything in between them would be medium. 

You will also find that fine hair can’t hold curls very well whereas medium hair is relatively easy to style and can hold curls for a longer period. Thin to medium strands can be easily volumized with the right styling routine and targeted care. Thicker strands are super easy to curl, but because they are less supple, it can be tricky to style them or get them to hold their shape.  

To tame coarse or curly hair, look for deeply nourishing and softening formulas that enhance manageability. These products are created to make your strands more supple so that they can retain a defined shape.  

Coarse doesn’t mean strong — it’s often the most prone to dryness. Softening treatments are key to manageability.

Jan Spagnuolo

Metodo Director

Rossano Ferretti HairSpa, Park Hyatt New York

3. Hair texture vs. Hair porosity 

When it comes to understanding your hair’s needs, two often-overlooked factors are texture and porosity. While they’re sometimes confused, they describe very different aspects of your hair — and both can greatly influence which products and treatments work best for you. 

Hair Texture: How Your Hair Feels and Behaves 

Hair texture refers to the overall feel and surface quality of your hair strands — not the curl pattern or thickness. It describes how your hair behaves day-to-day and how it reacts to styling, touch, and the environment. 

Common texture traits include: 

• Silky or smooth 
• Coarse or rough 
• Frizzy 
• Elastic or stretchy 

These qualities impact how manageable your hair is, how prone it is to tangling or breakage, and how well it responds to styling. 

Hair Porosity: How Your Hair Absorbs and Retains Moisture 

Hair porosity isn’t visible and is therefore often overlooked as a key factor in determining hair condition and needs. However, knowing your hair’s porosity can be a game-changer in determining which products you should be putting on your hair for effective results.  

But what is “porosity”?

Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and hold onto moisture and products.

To discover what kind of porosity your hair is, you can do the following simple experiment:

Place a single strand of hair into a glass of water.

• If it sinks to the bottom, your hair has high porosity (which means it soaks in a lot of moisture).
• If your hair sinks but doesn’t touch the bottom of the glass, it has well-balanced porosity (which means that it absorbs just enough moisture to keep it healthy).
• If your hair floats on top of the water, it has low porosity (which means it does not absorb moisture easily).

Now, you’d think that hair with high porosity would be ultra-moisturized all the time. But this is not the case. This type of hair absorbs moisture quickly because of gaps or tears around the cuticle. This means that it loses moisture just as fast as it absorbs it. The result is dry, brittle hair that’s prone to breakage.

What do I do if I have hair with high porosity?

If you fall into this category, we suggest that you avoid heat styling as often as possible. Products with harsh chemicals are also a “no” because they can continue to dry out your hair. Instead look for natural deep-hydrating hair masks, hair oils, and leave-in treatments that will infuse your locks with moisture while sealing the cuticle to prevent moisture from seeping out again.

What do I do if I have hair with low porosity?

If your hair has low porosity, it means that your cuticles are blocking moisture from seeping into your strands, and you will need to use a product that helps moisture move through the shaft.

Look for deeply hydrating formulas enriched with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and keratin—these help draw moisture in and encourage it to absorb more effectively into the strand. Lightweight creams, milks, or serums that can infuse moisture without weighing hair down are ideal. Consistency is key, so incorporate hydrating treatments regularly to support elasticity and softness.

4. Get to know your scalp

The fact is, if your scalp isn’t in good shape, then your hair won’t be either. So, never ever underestimate the power of good scalp care!

To see what type of condition your scalp is in, we suggest that you inspect it the day after a wash. If your roots appear lifeless and greasy, then you most likely have a scalp that’s prone to oiliness. If this is the case, a deep cleansing scalp scrub may be just what you need to remove impurities, product build-up, and excess oils.

If you find that your scalp flakes, chances are that it’s dry and in need of nourishment. A flaky scalp can also often be quite sensitive, so you’ll need to be gentle in your approach. We suggest a sulphate-free hydrating shampoo that will clean your hair and scalp without stripping it of natural nourishing oils.

But what if my scalp is both oily and flaky?

It’s more common than you think. Often, this combination is caused by product buildup, excess oil, and infrequent or incorrect cleansing. The best approach is a balanced routine that includes a clarifying yet non-aggressive exfoliant to remove impurities, paired with a nourishing pre-wash or treatment oil to soothe and restore harmony to your scalp and hair.

5. What about hair-fall and ageing hair?

Ageing hair and hair-fall tend to be classified as conditions more than hair types. Nonetheless, if your hair falls into one (or both) of these categories, it will help to pair your locks with products that will nurture them.

If your hair feels more fragile than it used to or you’re experiencing increased shedding, it’s important to adopt a nurturing routine focused on strengthening and revitalising the strands. Look for treatments rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and naturally rejuvenating actives that support a healthy scalp and improve resilience over time. Regular use can help reduce breakage, improve thickness, and restore vitality to mature or depleted hair.

There is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to haircare. And that’s the beauty of it. With the right understanding and the right ritual, your natural hair — whether fine or full, wavy or wild — becomes your signature.

As Rossano himself often says, “Luxury is not about changing who you are. It’s about elevating what’s already there.”

If you’re still unsure about your hair’s type, texture, or needs, we invite you to book a consultation at one of our salons. Our expert stylists — trained in the renowned Ferretti Metodo — will carefully study your hair and help you discover the ritual that’s right for you. Prefer to connect from home? Our customer care team is always available and happy to offer personalised guidance.